What Is Diamond Shape?
Diamond shape is a key factor to consider when buying jewelry, as it greatly influences the stone’s style, price, and overall look. With various shapes available, each offers its own distinct charm and characteristics.
From the timeless elegance of a round diamond to the eye-catching appeal of fancy shapes like oval, cushion, princess, pear, emerald, marquise, asscher, radiant, and heart, every shape features unique angles and facets. These elements determine how light interacts with the stone, enhancing its brilliance and showcasing its individuality.
Why Does Diamond Shape Matter?
Diamond shape goes beyond aesthetics — it impacts how a stone sparkles, how large it appears, and even its price. The shape refers to the diamond’s outline when viewed from above, with each cut reflecting light in its own distinct way, resulting in a unique brilliance and character.
Whether you’re captivated by the timeless sparkle of a round diamond or the vintage allure of a cushion cut, understanding the different shapes can make your diamond shopping experience both enjoyable and informed.
Round
The round brilliant is the most popular diamond shape, known for its classic elegance and exceptional sparkle. As the only perfectly symmetrical shape, it maximizes light reflection, delivering unparalleled brilliance. In fact, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) exclusively provides a cut grade for round diamonds, making the cut quality a critical factor in determining its beauty.
For the best brilliance, it’s recommended to choose an Excellent Cut round diamond. This shape also hides color and clarity imperfections remarkably well, allowing buyers to opt for stones up to two grades lower in these areas without compromising on appearance. However, because cutting a round diamond results in more rough diamond loss, it tends to be the most expensive shape per carat.
Pros and Cons
Pros:
- Exceptional sparkle.
- Fits any setting and style.
- Timeless elegance.
Cons:
- Higher price per carat due to its popularity and cutting process.
Oval
Oval-cut diamonds are a popular choice for their elegant, elongated shape that enhances the stone’s perceived size while creating a flattering, lengthening effect on the wearer’s finger. Their proportions can range from a softer, rounder oval to a slender, elongated silhouette, with most buyers preferring a ratio between 1.35 and 1.50.
Oval diamonds are excellent at concealing clarity imperfections, though in lower color grades like I and J, a slight warmth may be noticeable at the tips.
Jeweler's Tip: Watch Out for the Bow-Tie
A common characteristic of oval diamonds is the bow-tie effect — a dark shadow across the center caused by how light interacts with the diamond’s facets. While nearly all oval diamonds display some degree of bow-tie, the visibility can vary from subtle to severe. Carefully inspecting the diamond or consulting with an expert can help ensure you choose one with minimal bow-tie for maximum brilliance.
Pros and Cons
Pros:
- Creates a slimming effect on fingers.
- Offers great sparkle and a larger perceived size.
Cons:
- May display a “bow-tie” shadow in the center if not well-cut.
Marquise
The marquise cut features an elongated shape with pointed ends, designed to maximize carat weight and create the illusion of a larger diamond. Its dramatic, vintage-inspired silhouette is sure to turn heads and make a bold statement.
Pros and Cons
Pros:
- Appears larger than other shapes of the same carat weight.
- Elongates fingers beautifully.
Cons:
- Prone to chipping at the pointed ends.
- Requires careful symmetry to avoid a lopsided look.
What Makes It Stand Out?
Perfect for those who appreciate bold, standout designs, the marquise cut offers a striking, unique look. It’s also a fantastic choice for elongating the fingers, making it an ideal option for those seeking a distinctive, eye-catching diamond.
Pear
Also known as the teardrop shape, the pear-cut diamond features a unique combination of a pointed tip and rounded end, making it an eye-catching and distinctive choice. Like oval cuts, pear-shaped diamonds create a slimming effect on the fingers, especially when the diamond has an elongated length-to-width ratio.
Among all diamond shapes, pear cuts appear the largest for their carat weight. While the typical length-to-width ratio for a classic pear is 1.40-1.70, a wider shape is often preferred for a solitaire setting. Pear diamonds conceal inclusions well but may show some warmth at the tips in lower color grades.
Pros and Cons
Pros:
- Unique, eye-catching shape.
- Creates a slimming effect on fingers.
Cons:
- Can have a visible bow-tie effect if poorly cut.
- Requires perfect symmetry for optimal beauty.
Princess
Princess-cut diamonds offer a sleek, modern look. Since this shape uses more of the rough diamond than other cuts, it’s a budget-friendly option that maximizes carat weight.
When selecting a princess-cut diamond, the most important factor to consider is the setting. Its sharp, angular corners are more susceptible to chipping, but opting for a v-prong setting can provide added protection, ensuring your diamond stays secure and beautiful over time.
For a classic square-shaped diamond, aim for a length-to-width ratio between 1.00 and 1.05. If you prefer a more rectangular appearance, choose a ratio of 1.10 or higher.
Pros and Cons
Pros:
- Brilliant sparkle with a modern twist.
- Works beautifully in sleek, geometric settings.
Cons:
- The sharp corners can chip without a protective setting.
Radiant Cut
Radiant-cut diamonds combine the sleek, straight edges and cut corners of an emerald cut with the dazzling brilliance of a brilliant cut. Known for their vibrant sparkle, radiant diamonds effectively conceal both color and clarity, offering excellent value.
While both square and elongated radiant cuts are beautiful, elongated radiants tend to appear larger, making them the preferred choice for many buyers.
Pros and Cons
Pros:
- Extremely brilliant with a vibrant sparkle.
- Hides inclusions and flaws well.
Cons:
- Can appear smaller than other cuts due to its depth.
- Less traditional compared to shapes like round or princess.
Cushion
Cushion-cut diamonds offer a timeless, romantic look with a soft, pillow-like shape. While they may not sparkle as intensely as round brilliants, they often display exceptional fire — the colorful flashes of light that add to their charm.
The most common modern variation is the Cushion Modified Brilliant, featuring an extra row of facets that create a distinctive crushed ice effect. On the other hand, a Cushion Brilliant has fewer, larger facets, producing a sparkle more reminiscent of a round diamond.
For those seeking an elongated shape, a typical length-to-width ratio of 1.10 to 1.25 is ideal. Additionally, cushion cuts are excellent at hiding inclusions, making them a versatile and beautiful choice for any setting.
Pros and Cons
Pros:
- Classic, vintage-inspired design.
- Exceptional brilliance and fire.
Cons:
- Can appear smaller than other cuts of the same carat weight.
- Requires careful selection of length-to-width ratio for the desired look.
Emerald
The emerald cut diamond is distinguished by its step-cut pavilion and large, open table, giving it a unique, sophisticated appearance. Unlike brilliant cuts, which are known for their sparkle, emerald cuts produce a captivating hall-of-mirrors effect, showcasing the diamond’s clarity and structure.
Emerald cuts are great at concealing color but less effective at hiding inclusions, so diamonds graded VS2 or better are recommended for the best appearance. This cut is more popular than the Asscher cut, as its elongated shape makes it appear larger.
Pros and Cons
Pros:
- Unique, subtle brilliance.
- Highlights the diamond’s clarity.
Cons:
- Inclusions and flaws are more visible.
- Less sparkle compared to brilliant cuts.
Asscher
The Asscher cut diamond is a square-shaped gem with elegant step-cut facets, reminiscent of the emerald cut but with a distinct vintage charm. Originating in the early 1900s during the Art Deco era, its symmetrical design and mesmerizing hall-of-mirrors effect make it a timeless and captivating choice.
If you love vintage elegance and refined sophistication, the Asscher cut is an excellent option. Its clean lines and understated brilliance emphasize clarity and structure, offering a classic look for those who prefer a more subtle sparkle over intense brilliance.
Pros and Cons
Pros:
- Distinctive vintage appeal with a modern edge.
- Highlights the diamond’s clarity beautifully.
- Durable shape, thanks to its cropped corners.
Cons:
- Less brilliance compared to brilliant cuts.
- Inclusions and flaws are more visible due to the open faceting.
Final Thoughts
Ultimately, the best diamond shape is the one that captures your heart. Consider your lifestyle, personal style, and what truly matters to you.
There’s no wrong choice — the perfect diamond is the one that feels uniquely yours or perfectly suited for the person you’re celebrating.
